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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member Number: 331
Posts: 29
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I hope this is in the right forum, but I am trying to install a DUI on my 266. The supplied thermostat housing works great but the water outlet that goes on top of the thermostat housing is hitting the distributor cap. Anyone figure out any mods or anything I can do to get this thing in?
Thanks, Tren |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Tech Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 10
Location: Leaburg, Orygone
Age: 61
Posts: 1,352
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Post a pic of the water neck you are using that is a problem. The point of interference needs to be defined in the pic! There are several alternative SV necks that can be used.
Also post a pic of the radiator being used...a wide shot of the assembly is best.
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EcoScout "Treehugger Mark I" |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member Number: 331
Posts: 29
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Here is a pic of the neck i am using.
I have no pic of the radiator because I currently do not have one. Still looking around. I think I have a line on one local but we shall see. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Tech Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 10
Location: Leaburg, Orygone
Age: 61
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Good pic Tren!
So we're talkin' 266 inna Scout 800??? With a oldskool vertical flow radiator (OEM?). This neck is from a truck app (pickup/T'all/Loadstar) with NO mount for an A.I.R. pump. I'm running one of these on my rig now as it gives TONS of distributor clearance for maintenance/install. Bet it's perfect for a DUI. In fact, I'm getting one ready now for another dude down south of here that has the SAME issues you describe. I won't PROMISE it's perfect but it should be. I also CAREFULLY chop the I-4 mounting ear(s) off the thermostat housing and grind those smooth, once they are finished out ya can't tell they were ever made for BOTH engine applications. Take some time to browse through all the pics in this thread and you will see the finished product and what your's would look like: Beer Can Maneefol Guapo Once you have a radiator, it's real easy to simply visit the parts house and find a molded hose to make the connection...ya may have to use your imagination and "cut" a segment from a much longer molded hose, but that's no big deal. I DO NOT endorse the use of "flex"-type universal fitzall cooling system plumbing hoses! I collect all kinds of IH-pattern water necks and thermostat housing as those are parts that are NOT available new anymore. I know Jeff has some of these necks available curently, I've seen 'em. If not, I believe I've got two left right now, I could dropship one to ya to try out.
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EcoScout "Treehugger Mark I" |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Tech Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 10
Location: Leaburg, Orygone
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Tren...
Contact Jeff and make a deal with him regarding the neck and anything else ya might need...thermostat, gaskets, hardware, etc. He may also have a neck in inventory. If he does not have one, then he'll contact me with your shipping instructions and I'll send one from my inventory! We do this quite often for customers! I had one other example of a neck to check out this morning...but after thinking it through onna mock-up, it won't work. The power (and thus the phone system) is down at IHON today. Hopefully it will be back up later this afternoon. So keep trying to get through to IHON.
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EcoScout "Treehugger Mark I" |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 1
Location: Loomis, CA(but soon to be Grass Valley)
Posts: 989
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Tren,
I will send you out this particular water neck at my cost as I said I would do on the phone yesterday. I will have one sent out either today or Monday at the latest.
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Jeff Ismail IH Only North |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member Number: 331
Posts: 29
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Well with some random luck it worked!
A buddy of mine was down at the junk yard and spied a scout II he checked under the hood and found that water outlet. and with a little bit of grinding it works perfectly. (see attached photos) Jeff said he was going to do some thinking and see if he couldnt figure out some hose routing for the radiator. but it is installed and ready to rock! Tren |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member Number: 331
Posts: 29
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Ok here are some new pics I have tried a couple of hoses around the shop but I have found nothing that works yet.
So here are some pics. ![]() ![]() ![]() Let me know if you need any more pics=) t |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Tech Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 10
Location: Leaburg, Orygone
Age: 61
Posts: 1,352
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Got some ideas for ya Tren...but I gotta go make a roadtrip to deliver a Traveler and recover a Travelette. I'll post some info late tonite when I get home.
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EcoScout "Treehugger Mark I" |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Member Number: 539
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 6
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Not that it will help your application, but here are some build shots of my engine with the same water neck M. Mayben referenced along with the correct upper hose. I've been using it for 2 or so years now. Unfortunately the stock upper hose is no longer available from IH (I own the last one they had in the inventory system), but you can see the NAPA part number in the photo.
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Lon 1976 Terra 1977 Midas Traveller |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Administrator
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Location: Loomis, CA(but soon to be Grass Valley)
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Depending on what Michael comes up with I would suggest starting with a Scout II upper radiator hose, trimmed, and set in place in a way that it just might work just fine.
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Jeff Ismail IH Only North |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Tech Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2007
Member Number: 10
Location: Leaburg, Orygone
Age: 61
Posts: 1,352
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First thing I'd do is LOOSE that scruuball heater shutoff plumbing arrangement. It's in the way of anything you install. Positive shutoff valves will create stagnation in the heater core leading to corrosion and rot-thru. And particulate present in the system will "drop out" in the heater core leading to blockage. The additives in common glycol-base coolant keep the fine particles in suspension as long as "flow" is maintained. You can install any kind of cable-control valve to "stop" coolant circulation, but a proper one will allow a small amount of bypass through a spit port in the valve itself to maintain some coolant flow through the core. And without FULL coolant flow through the heater core, it's impossible to purge all the air out of the system when serviced.
Remove the whole thing from the water pump housing and install a nipple as used on later model engines. ALL heater hose connections on IH light duty stuff are 5/8". The water neck end of the hose needs to be 2-1/4" ID...don't know why IH chose to make each of the various water necks and the radiator nipples two different sizes but they did, that means a "molded" hose is needed. I'd never use a fitzall "flex" hose on ANY application! Jeff's idea of a SII upper hose looks like it will work with some trimming of the radiator end. Other than that, when I face issues like this, I simply go to the parts house and go back to the hose racks and look for a hose with the proper configuration. Sometimes ya have to be creative and "visualize" what ya need, but using something with a 1-1/4" molded end is gonna "control" what ya end up with. Then just cut out the piece of hose ya need. I do this VERY often! The long top hose in Lonchair's pic IS correct for that neck you are now using but only when used witha crossflow radiator such as found inna SII or a "D" (squarebody) fullsize rig. I buy those over the counter at two different parts houses locally.
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EcoScout "Treehugger Mark I" |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member Number: 331
Posts: 29
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Well final update:
The scout II hose cut down works like a champ! I did need to trim down both sides and put a spring in it but other than that pretty easy go at it:! And i did take out all of that silly plumbing=) Thanks! Tren |
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