MC's Custom Scout II

[ihojeff]

With the completion of one project Darren and I have quickly moved onto the next. This project will be a little mild compared to our last build but none the less will be one to follow. The following list is what is planned for this project broken down into sections:

FRAME -

CPT Reverse Shackle kit
Bilstein Shocks
Skyjacker Soft Ride Springs
Gusset rear spring mounts
Move engine/drivetrain back
Custom Transmission Crossmember
New Body Bushings
1" Body Lift

FRONT AXLE -

Turn Knuckles
Regear axle and add a Limited slip differential
Swaybar

REAR AXLE -

Regear axle and add a Limited slip differential
TSM Disc brake conversion
Swaybar

ENGINE -

Rebuilt 345
Balanced w/ mild porting
AFI TBI fuel injection
Stans Headers
Custom exhaust system
Mean Green Starter and Alternator
Aluminum Radiator
Electric Fan

TRANSMISSION -

B&M 700R4 Automatic Overdrive Transmission
B&M Shifter
Blackwood Labs Adapter Kit

TRANSFER CASE -

To Be Announced
CV driveshafts

BODY/INTERIOR -

Vintage Air A/C system
New carpet
Custom built rollcage
New Steering Column
New paint
Fuel filler door
Power windows and door locks
Bushwacker fender flares
Hood Vents
New seats

OTHER -

Hydroboost brakes
33 gallon fuel tank
Stainless Steel brakelines

So this is what is planned for the Scout. Usually as a project unfolds changes are made so we will keep you up to date. One thing to point out is that this Scout is one of the first Scout II's to ever be produced. Known as a Scout 810, these first Scout II's had minor differences such as a push button glove box door, vent cables that locked, VIN plate on cowl, and smooth sides on the inner quarter panels. Below are a few pics pointing out the differences.

[ihojeff]

So we begin the build up with some before pictures and then the teardown. Didn't take long before we discovered rust in the floors.

[scouttoo]

Looks like the body has the typical compost under the flooring, probably in other places too. I know of a Scout with a great body and custom fuel door that would make a great candidate for a custom build!LOL

[ihojeff]

It seemed the more digging Darren and I did the more rust we found. In the end we cut out both left and right floors, body mounts, and passenger side rocker. Darren also stripped down the front grill, inner/outer fenders, and windshield frame.















The top of the passenger side rocker looked bad so it was cut out.


More rust that will have to be removed.



The inside of the passenger rocker. With this much rust this also was removed.

[ihojeff]

This picture shows the stripped down tub with all the Dynamat removed from the front half and all rust cut away. Darren did some experimenting and found that when chilled the Dynamat removed quite easily with the help of an air chisel it came out faster than we anticipated.



Next the tub and chassis were rolled outside where we removed the tub, flipped it over, and gave both the tub and chassis a throrough cleaning with the pressure washer.





Some test fitting of the new body mounts.



Another area where rust was removed.



The new floors and cab mounts are pulled from inventory.



Rust Destroyer was applied to all the rusty areas and then sanded back off where any welding would be performed. We did it this way so that any deep pores left behind from rust will at least get some rust protection as opposed to none at all.

[ihojeff]

These next two pictures are of the passenger side rocker getting installed.





And then the driver side body mount.



Custom patch pieces were made for the kick panels.



Darren welded up all the holes on the firewall that were no longer going to be used.



The driver side floor welded in.



Another kick panel patch.



A close up of the holes welded up on the firewall.





This is the patch we made for the passenger side kick panel.

[ihojeff]

Darren welding in the floor.



To make welding of the floor easier we first lay the floor down on the tub. Mark the position of where we want all the welds to go and then drill out all the spots using the drill press.



The passenger side body mount welded in.



More custom rust repair was performed. These pics show the new metal welded in followed by a picture of the welds smoothed out.





You can hardly tell that any repairs were ever made.



More custom rust repair.





The remaining rear portion of the tub with all the Dynamat removed and new floors installed.

[ihojeff]

The tub was removed once more so some final custom patch pieces could be welded underneath along with some more welding.







While the tub was off all the body mounts on the frame had gussets added to them.







Darren started patching up the holes in the dash.



The driver side quarter panel was then removed as it will be replaced. It had a lot of bondo on it from a previous repair job and was cracking so we felt it was best to replace the quarter panel.

[ihojeff]

While we wait for parts to come in we moved on to the rear axle where it has been removed from the chassis and torn apart for inspection.



Looks as if its been awhile since it last saw an oil change.

[ihojeff]

The housing was checked for straightness and found to be bent(no surprise there). The ends of the housing were cut off and rewelded in order to make the housing straight. New CPT perch's were also installed.







The Powrlok and new Yukon 4.56 gears were installed.



Here are pics of the rear disc brake kit that we will be using. The kit is made by TSM and offers a parking brake in the caliper.





The Vintage Air mock up box arrived. Before ordering in the complete system we felt it best to order in the mock-up box first as we were not sure that Vintage Air's new Magnum4 system was going to fit.

[ihojeff]

Next Darren and I started on the roll cage. We reinstalled the hardtop and started taking measurements.



We called up our good friends at IHCustoms and ordered in a set of their front cage plates. This plate kit gives more room in order to access the glove box and use the parking brake without a bar being in the way.





We then bent up the main hoop of the cage with 2" .120 wall tubing.





The 'A' pillars were made to be removeable. This portion of the cage will be chromed for a little added 'bling'.





With the main structure of the cage set in place cross bars were then fabbed up and added in.

[ihojeff]

For the 'B' pillar dual 1 3/4" .120 wall tubing was fabbed in.











Some center bars were added in and then splayed outward towards the 'C' pillar.



We joined the two 'B' pillar bars together for added strength.