New 345 SV engine data

[Bill USN-1]

No IH this time but there are some big ones out here.

It was 65 when I left WA. It's now hitting 120 here during the day.

It's HOT!!!!
They say it will hit 140 by mid summer.

[ihojeff]

Originally Posted by Bill USN-1

No IH this time but there are some big ones out here.

It was 65 when I left WA. It's now hitting 120 here during the day.

It's HOT!!!!
They say it will hit 140 by mid summer.

Ouch! That is hot. Hopefully your duties keep you indoors in a well air conditioned area.

Stay safe!

[Craig]

How many knocks before the senser start to change the timing?

It'ds about 8-9 BTDC right now and runs great.

It was hot here today too.

[Bill USN-1]

You've got some cooling issues.
either the cooling or the temp sender location.
208 is a little much and will affect the fuel and timing.
gets worse as you drive.
above 35mph you shouldn't really need a fan so I would look at the cooling system and not the fan.
The heat will increase knock also!

Idle seems a little low to me but looks like a stock chip.
IAC is hitting 0 most of the time at idle.

knock count is not an issue.
save the knock table next time to see where the knock is-rpm/map.

fuel is a little rich at low rpm but looks like it will correct itself while driving.

[Craig]

Ya I know, Ive tried just about everything under the sun, still runs hot. I'm now suspecting the internal water passages are restricting flow. The engine was rebuilt, but looks like they did not soak the heads in a caustic soda solution very long to remove the rust as I could see rust and scale in the head when looking where the water tubes attach
I'm running the RMI-25 coolant treatment now, but think I need to try the prestone super cleaner solution. Have you ever used it before? Any ideas on what I should do to clean them up?

Heres a cross section of a head, notice how the upper passage is half plugged

[Bill USN-1]

While it's possible that the passages could be restrictive, I would lean more towrds the radiator being plugged or the wrong design.

What are you running for a radiator?
how many cores?
Have you had it rodded out or recored?

Does it make any difference if you run the heater and heater fan on full hot?

I have run the prestone flush before.
Put some in then drove it around for a while. then flushed the system through every hose en each direction.
You would be amazed how much you can get out of the heater core flushing both directions.

Keep in mind that if the block wasn't boiled or baked then the freeze plugs may not have come out and the block may have a lot of sediment in the bottom.
With all the flushing, you may end up with a leaky freeze plug.
But that's a good time to flush the block!!

[Craig]

3 core rad, that was rodded out. I popped the freeze plugs before taking the motor to Jeff and power washed the insides and use a screw driver to dig out all that I could out from the block. a lot of stuff came out. I did not wash out the heads.
I did call the rebuild shop and they said they run them through two hot tanks, one solvent and one castic soda, but they did said they don't leave the heads in there very long. I've run the heater and it makes a little difference, not enough to really matter. I think in the next week or so I will try some prestone and see what comes out.

[Bill USN-1]

You running a shroud?

[Craig]

I have a shroud. I run both a fixed fan ( no clutch) and large electric fan. The fixed does better on the freeway, but the electric works better when going slow, like off road. New rad. cap and over flow bottle, new water pump with blades set to spec. new hoses, new t-stat ( even tested that) Seal every thing so the air has to go through the radiator. Burp'ed all the air out

I started a thread in the cooling section trying to figure out whats what. I'm at drawing at straws now Jeff can get me a new radiator for about $450. Went looking at the JY at radiators. Looks like an 1985 ford 250 diesel radiator would fit with some "cut and paste". (Edit the Ford is a not a cross flow) I can't fit the IH Pickup radiator as the frame rails are to cloose on a Scout. Unless you install a 3" body lift, plus you would still need to cut the inder fender support open an extra 3-4".

[Craig]

Back to FI stuff. In an effort to try and figure out my cooling issue I have been moving the timing around to see what would happen. It runs like a raped ape at 9-10 degrees, but worry about burning a valve. I've moved it back to 5 degrees.
I'm headed to the SMOG shop in the morning and will log data and post up the info shortly. They will be running the Scout on the Dyno during the test, so we should get some good real world numbers. Can hardly wait to see what I find out.

[Craig]

Victor was really nice about testing the Scout. We did the first run and he did not like that the CO2 was low .11 I pump the fuel pressure 1psi and that brought the co2 up to .55 He said it was running good at idle, but now that we bump the fuel 1 psi it better at crusing speed. But will be a bit smelly (rich) at low speed.

I have the printout.
HC........ppm 218
CO...........%0.50
CO2.........%13.9
O2...........%0.7
NO(x)...ppm 2589
P.E.F......... 0.481

He also thought the O2 sensor should be switching faster, the voltage looked good. He said I could put a heated 3 wire one in the and see what happends

[ldo_marlin]

This log is too short. Looks like it was during the smog test? Fuel data does not look bad though. You'll have to log for more time. Not enough data to tune.

Where is your O2 sensor mounted? How far from the exhaust manifold?

[Bill USN-1]

Something to keep in mind is that if the BLM's are close and you make a change in fuel pressure or remove the airfilter or make any kind of change, the data will change right away and then the computer will adjust it right back to where it thinks it should be.
So even though you may have changed it to richer at idle, it may not stay that way once the ECM learns the data to put it back to 14.7:1 AFR.
So if you do have a lazy O2, then the data the O2 is using may not be acurate.

But just because an O2 may be mounted in the collector and cools down at idle so the ECM drops into open loop, does not mean the sensor is bad needs to be replaced.
If the chip tune is good then the engine can operate fine in open loop.

[Craig]

Thanks guys. I did have the air cleaner removed to make the fuel pressure adjustment. I read through a ton of third gen posts on lean running and several mentioned bumping the fuel pressure.
I'm glad you said the ECM wants to adjust it to what it thinks is correct, as thats what I thought it did. I only have 1 O2 sensor in and its about 2" below the stock exhaust manifold on the drivers side..

I have a stock 350 chip from what I belive is a 1989 C/K1500 auto california model

1612
AMUS

[ldo_marlin]

O2 sensor position looks good. No need for a 3 wire unit. If you are happy with the fuel pressure, now is time to start with chip tuning (fuel and timing)