IH ONLY NORTH - View Single Post - WHY OIL GOES BAD….AND HOW YOU CAN PREVENT IT

Greg R · 07-29-2008, 10:46 PM

Dick: It helps a lot. It's rare to find old school techs who know what the hell they're talking about online. My old 60 F100 owner's manual says to use 90wt in the trans, or 50wt non-detergent as an alternative. Speaking of European, Hillman spec'd straight 30wt for their manuals back in the day. It's hard to find non-detergent nowadays, so "everybody's" onboard for the latest and greatest, but not the best in my book. Oil spec's for manuals also took into account synchro friction coefficients, a small detail often unheard in some circles. Following your advice keeps it simple. So what's in the 210 that's safe for manual transmissions, and still protects hypoids in the diffs? I thought because the boundary protection built into hypoid oils, couldn't co-exist with yellow metals.

07-29-2008, 10:46 PM	#4 (permalink)
Greg R Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Member Number: 527 Posts: 90	Re: WHY OIL GOES BAD….AND HOW YOU CAN PREVENT IT Dick: It helps a lot. It's rare to find old school techs who know what the hell they're talking about online. My old 60 F100 owner's manual says to use 90wt in the trans, or 50wt non-detergent as an alternative. Speaking of European, Hillman spec'd straight 30wt for their manuals back in the day. It's hard to find non-detergent nowadays, so "everybody's" onboard for the latest and greatest, but not the best in my book. Oil spec's for manuals also took into account synchro friction coefficients, a small detail often unheard in some circles. Following your advice keeps it simple. So what's in the 210 that's safe for manual transmissions, and still protects hypoids in the diffs? I thought because the boundary protection built into hypoid oils, couldn't co-exist with yellow metals.